Traditional Chinese Clothing: Denouncing Fetishization and Appropriation
In this day and age, our reliance on social media platforms has led numerous brands to target young audiences through investing in influencer support and promotions. Popularity on the viral app, TikTok, has sold products including CeraVe skincare, Aerie crossover leggings, The Ordinary acne solutions, Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara, and even fitness items such as weighted hula hoops. I won’t lie and claim that I’m not guilty of hopping on these trends—in fact, I will not hesitate to drop my entire college savings at the sight of some superb marketing or cave into the pleasures of retail therapy. Living vicariously through clothing hauls on my FYP, I’ve watched Shein, a fast-fashion company founded in China, develop its presence in the United States. Given this, their skyrocketing sales have garnered controversy, as the conversation of their exploitation of child labor and environmentally unethical practices comes into the limelight. Moreover, they are responsible for merchandising cultural clothing and promoting the idea that traditional garments can be sexualized. The company’s actions—or lack thereof—perpetuates a system where Chinese cultural attire can be worn as a “trend” in the West.
The History of the Qipao
The qipao, often referred to as the cheongsam, translates to “banner dress” in Mandarin and dates back to the Qing Dynasty. Although the cheongsam is closely associated with the qipao, they have distinct origins: cheongsam is Cantonese and translates to “long gown.” As time progressed from the Manchu era, the Chinese grew from the established gender roles by eradicating foot binding; thus, the wearing of the qipao signified equality between men and women. Furthermore, the qipao was made to be more practical than the previous long robes during China’s Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), as it was more suitable in the workplace and bustling cities. Soon, these dresses were seen all over the streets of Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. The qipao is worn to weddings, formal dinners, celebrations like Lunar New Year, and birthdays.
Nine fundamental components that make the qipao unique: the fabric, fit, Mandarin collar, pankou, large front, edging, sleeves, length, and slits.
Fabric
The material may include cotton, linen, wool, or cashmere (the thicker fabrics are used during colder seasons). For special events, silk, velvet, and lace are used in decoration with embroidery, beads, and sequins. Typically, the textiles are not very stretchy since they are meant to hold a particular shape on the individual’s body.
Fit
There are two variations of fitting—Shanghai-style (Haipai) and Beijing-style (Jingpai). While they both are A-line, they can be differentiated based on how tightly they embrace the woman’s shape. The Jingpai is considered more conservative, and hence, has a straighter appearance.
Mandarin Collar & Pankou
The length of the collar has been subject to change over the many dynasties. Variants range from covering the entire neck up to one’s ears, to those where the length is only an inch. Moreover, to hold the qipao together, a pankou (floral or straight design)—consisting of a sturdy wire weaved into it to ensure security—is placed on the chest region.
Large Front & Edging
The large front acts as an opening for putting on and taking off the qipao, and the edging includes four different techniques: gun, xiang, qian, and dang.
Sleeves, Length, & Slits
The sleeve lengths are fitted cap sleeves or the dress itself tends to be sleeveless. Most importantly, qipaos are meant to be worn below the knee to mid-calf or at floor-length. The slits are not supposed to be drastic and generally go up to the thigh.
Appreciation vs. Appropriation
The widespread discourse over appreciation or appropriation of the qipao was largely debated in 2018 when a white high school student, Keziah Daum, wore the traditional dress to prom.
Daum said that she meant “no disrespect to the Chinese culture,” and that she was only showing her appreciation. However, she did receive immediate backlash after her posts on social media; Chinese critics such as Jeremy Lam responded, stating that “My culture is not your goddamn prom dress.” It was retweeted thousands of times, as countless users demonstrated their agreement. Essentially, the question we’re asking is: what constitutes appreciation versus appropriation, and where does the difference begin to get a little hazy?
Personally, I agree with those that labeled Daum as an appropriator—I don’t think this was an instance of appreciation. She had responded so defensively, and disregarded those calling her out by stating “It’s a fucking dress.” If she had truly been appreciating Chinese culture, she would have taken the time to understand its history and origins.
Similarly, I think it’s critical that we address the qipao’s advertisement and appropriation on popular sites such as Shein and Amazon.
These dresses, marketed as qipaos and sold under categories like “Lingerie & Loungewear'' and “Sexy Costumes,” are beyond offensive to Chinese culture and history. One of the dresses is advertised as a “Velvet Lace-up” with a thong. There is a large cutout in the chest area and the sides are tied together with string in a criss-cross pattern. Another dress exhibits the same problems, plus the fact that the entire backing is cut out and the garment is way above conventional length. Not to mention, one is entirely mesh and see-through. The commonality between all of these dresses is the attempt at sexualizing the clothing and bringing an appeal to Western culture. The description from Amazon seller, YOMORIO, left me utterly disgusted: “sexy hollow outdesign, totally show a sexy and charm you… suitable for sexy nightwear, Halloween cosplay costume, club wear.” I’m at a loss for words…
The roots of the qipao and how it emerged in Chinese culture are absolutely beautiful. It saddens me to see how these alterations are being made to commercialize our culture by marketing it as a seductive wardrobe—phrases including “sexy,” “thong,” and “lingerie” should never be associated with the qipao. It’s essential to recognize how these companies don’t take any accountability for the widespread sale of this apparel being incorrectly advertised. This only perpetuates the idea of fetishization of Chinese women, and puts them at a greater risk for attacks or violence. This issue is not a new one, as the sexualization of traditional clothing has been documented since its appearance in the film The World of Suzie Wong, dating all the way back to 1960.
We cannot allow for our cherished clothing to be deemed merely as a “sexy costume.” Our cultural clothing is not a costume. It’s time we start actively condemning those who perpetuate this inaccurate and insulting portrayal.
What are your thoughts on how traditional clothing is being portrayed by popular brands and companies? How do you feel in regards to these garments being called costumes? I would love to hear from all of you! Leave any question(s) or comments you have below! Thank you!
Alternative places to shop from:
East Meets Dress is an Asian American owned brand whose online shop offers modern designs for your Chinese wedding.
CozyLadyWear is an international cheongsam and qipao store located in Beijing, China that offers thousands of traditional dresses, qun kwa, tang jackets and coats for wedding ceremonies, evening dress, and casual everyday wear.
Sylvia’s Boutique is a dress shop located in Flushing, New York City. Sylvia offers pre-made and custom-made qipaos in many designs and fabrics.
Shanghai Tai is a luxury, international brand with many modern qipao styles. It is on the pricier side, but you can choose to custom-make and tailor the dress to your size with multiple fitting sessions.
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Thank you Kayla! Appropriation of Asian cultures is so common in the West and it definitely needs to be called out just like this, with facts!